If your breakouts seem to follow your cycle, spike during stress, or appear along your jawline and chin, hormones may be the culprit.
Hormonal acne is common among adult women, and for Black women, it often comes with an added concern: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Treating the acne is one thing; preventing dark marks is another. That’s why a melanin-safe approach is essential.
Hormonal acne is typically triggered by fluctuations in androgens, which increase oil production and clog pores. These breakouts tend to be deep, tender, and persistent. Because melanin-rich skin is more prone to discoloration after inflammation, harsh treatments can sometimes do more harm than good.
The first step is gentle but consistent cleansing. A sulfate-free cleanser that removes excess oil without stripping the skin barrier helps reduce irritation. Over-cleansing or using overly aggressive scrubs can worsen inflammation and increase the risk of dark spots.
Next, consider salicylic acid. This beta hydroxy acid penetrates pores to dissolve excess oil and debris, making it effective for hormonal breakouts. Used two to three times a week, it can help keep congestion under control without triggering dryness. For more stubborn acne, a low-strength benzoyl peroxide treatment may help, but it should be introduced slowly to avoid irritation.
Retinoids are another powerful option. They regulate cell turnover, prevent clogged pores, and help fade hyperpigmentation over time. Prescription retinoids or over-the-counter adapalene can be effective, but moisturizing is key. Pairing retinoids with a nourishing, non-comedogenic moisturizer supports the skin barrier and minimizes peeling.
For women with persistent or severe hormonal acne, internal treatments may be worth discussing with a healthcare provider. Options like certain oral contraceptives or spironolactone work by balancing hormone levels and reducing oil production at the source.
Equally important is sun protection. Daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) prevents existing dark spots from deepening and protects healing skin. Contrary to outdated myths, sunscreen is non-negotiable for melanin-rich skin.
Finally, patience is crucial. Hormonal acne doesn’t clear overnight, and overloading your routine can worsen inflammation. A simplified regimen, cleanse, treat, moisturize, protect, often works best.
Clear skin isn’t about perfection. It’s about balance, barrier health, and treatments that respect the unique needs of melanin-rich skin. With the right strategy, hormonal breakouts can be managed, without sacrificing your glow.
