A new scientific breakthrough from a researcher at University of California, Los Angeles could change how millions of people with darker skin protect themselves from harmful UV rays.
Chemical biologist and cosmetic entrepreneur AJ Addae has developed an innovative zinc oxide sunscreen formula designed to eliminate the long-standing problem of the white, chalky residue that often discourages use among people with deeper skin tones.
Solving a Longstanding Problem
Zinc oxide sunscreen is widely praised for its effectiveness in blocking ultraviolet radiation. However, its visible white cast has historically made it less appealing for darker complexions — a factor experts say can lead to lower sunscreen use and increased risk of skin damage and skin cancer.
“They leave this white cast on my skin, and it deters me from wanting to use sunscreens,” Addae said in an interview with ABC 7.
Her personal experience motivated her to tackle the issue scientifically.
“The best sunscreen is one that you’ll wear,” she explained. “That’s really where my motivation came from.”
The Science Behind the Innovation
Working alongside her professor, Paul S. Weiss at UCLA’s Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center, Addae investigated why traditional zinc oxide sunscreens create a visible residue.
Researchers discovered the white cast comes from clumping of round zinc oxide particles. To address this, the team engineered a new structure — tetrapod-shaped zinc oxide particles with leg-like extensions that prevent clumping.
The result: a sunscreen that spreads evenly, appears transparent on darker skin, and still delivers strong UV protection comparable to existing products.
Their findings were published in a study with the American Chemical Society.
A Safer and More Inclusive Approach
Beyond its cosmetic benefits, the innovation also offers environmental advantages. The new zinc oxide formula requires no chemical solvents, making it a greener alternative to many current sunscreens.
Addae says the goal is broader than aesthetics.
“I think it’s going to be a good step in the right direction for getting everyone to wear sunscreen and prevent skin cancer,” she said.
Regulatory Challenges Ahead
Despite promising results, bringing new sunscreen innovations to market can be difficult. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has not approved a new UV filter since 1999, meaning regulatory hurdles remain.
However, researchers say this product has an advantage because it uses zinc oxide — an already approved UV-blocking ingredient — simply in a new structural form.
Addae is now working with UCLA to move the product toward commercial availability.
Why It Matters
Health experts say the innovation could significantly impact public health by increasing sunscreen use among populations that historically face barriers due to product limitations.
By addressing inclusivity in skincare technology, Addae’s work highlights how scientific innovation can directly reduce disparities in health outcomes.
