During economic downturns, beauty often tells a story long before numbers do.
The “lipstick index,” coined by Estée Lauder’s chairman in the early 2000s, observed that sales of affordable luxuries, like lipstick, often spike when the economy dips.
But for Black women, the beauty response to recessions is more layered than a simple sales boost. It reflects both resilience and reckoning in a beauty landscape shaped by cultural identity, community, and care.
Beauty as empowerment, even in crisis
For many Black women, beauty isn’t just vanity, it’s a form of visibility, self-expression, and often, resistance. During economic stress, the choice to maintain or adjust beauty routines speaks to deeper values. A switch from salon visits to DIY styles, for example, doesn’t mean giving up on beauty, it’s a strategic shift in how it’s accessed.
Shifts in spending, not in standards
When budgets tighten, Black women often pivot to more cost-effective beauty practices: protective styles that last longer, minimalist skincare regimens, and multi-use makeup products. These shifts don’t indicate a drop in interest but a savvy realignment. Brands that understand this, offering value without sacrificing quality, tend to maintain loyalty during downturns.
Community and creativity lead the way
Platforms like TikTok and YouTube have shown how Black women trade recession-friendly beauty hacks and tips, creating digital salons in place of physical ones. From mixing your own edge control to perfecting a home silk press, community knowledge becomes currency.
The emotional cost of “looking put together”
However, recession beauty also places pressure on Black women to maintain appearances even during hardship. Whether it’s societal expectations or professional norms, there’s often an unspoken rule to remain polished, even when stressed. This emotional labor can weigh heavily, especially when paired with financial strain.
Looking ahead
Recession beauty indicators may focus on product sales and market trends, but for Black women, the narrative runs deeper. It’s about adaptation, creativity, and preserving a sense of self in uncertain times. Understanding these nuances is crucial, not just for brands looking to stay relevant, but for a broader cultural understanding of what beauty means in moments of instability.
Because for Black women, beauty doesn’t stop with a downturn, it evolves.
