Celebrating Edna Lewis: The Godmother of Southern Cooking

by Gee NY

Edna Lewis, the legendary chef who is often hailed as the godmother of Southern cooking, has left an indelible mark on the culinary world.

Her dedication to preserving the authentic flavors and traditions of Southern cuisine continues to inspire chefs and food lovers alike, ensuring her legacy endures in kitchens across the globe.

A Legacy Rooted in History

Born on April 13, 1916, in the small town of Freetown, Virginia, Edna Lewis was one of eight children. Freetown itself carries historical significance, having been founded by three formerly enslaved people, including Lewis’ own grandfather, Chester Lewis.

This rich heritage would later shape her deep connection to Southern cooking, which she celebrated throughout her career.

From Seamstress to Chef

Lewis’s journey to culinary fame was anything but conventional. After moving to New York City during the Great Migration, she worked various jobs, including at a communist newspaper and as a campaigner for President Franklin D. Roosevelt.

She also gained recognition as a talented seamstress, crafting custom designs for stars like Marilyn Monroe and Doe Avedon.

But it was in 1948 that her culinary career truly began when she became the head chef at Café Nicholson in Manhattan, a position that allowed her to introduce the world to her simple yet exquisite Southern dishes.

A Culinary Pioneer

In 1972, a broken ankle led Lewis to compile her first cookbook, The Edna Lewis Cookbook.

However, it was her second book, The Taste of Country Cooking (1976), that catapulted her to national fame. This groundbreaking work rekindled an appreciation for traditional Southern cuisine and remains a staple for chefs seeking to learn from her wisdom and passion.

Honors and Lasting Impact

Throughout her career, Lewis received numerous accolades, including the prestigious James Beard Living Legend Award in 1995 and induction into the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame in 2003.

Even after retiring from cooking in 1992, she co-founded the Society for the Revival and Preservation of Southern Food, solidifying her commitment to keeping Southern culinary traditions alive.

Edna Lewis passed away at the age of 89 in 2006, but her influence continues to resonate.

In 2014, her contributions were immortalized with a United States postal stamp bearing her image, a fitting tribute to a woman whose culinary achievements have become a cherished part of American history.

This article was culled from a publication by The Parade.

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