A new scientific study is raising fresh concerns about the safety of hair products widely used by Black women, after researchers found dozens of potentially harmful chemicals in popular wigs, braiding hair, and extensions sold in the United States.
The research, published Wednesday in the journal Environment & Health, was conducted by scientists at the Silent Spring Institute.
The team tested 43 hair extension products purchased online and from beauty supply stores and identified a total of 169 chemicals — many of them linked to serious health risks.
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Dangerous Compounds Detected
Researchers found that 41 out of the 43 products tested contained hazardous substances, including flame retardants, pesticides, plastic stabilizers, and compounds associated with cancer and hormone disruption.
Among the findings:
- A dozen chemicals were listed under California’s Proposition 65, a law warning of substances known to cause cancer, reproductive harm, or birth defects.
- Seventeen chemicals linked to breast cancer appeared in 36 samples.
- Several products contained benzyl chloride, a compound that can damage the lungs and digestive system.
- Organotin compounds — rarely found in consumer goods — were detected in some synthetic hair samples and are associated with hormone disruption and environmental toxicity.
Lead researcher Elissia Franklin said the discovery of organotins was especially alarming because they are typically used as stabilizers in plastic materials like PVC.
“It was the organotin compounds that stood out to us,” Franklin noted, stressing their potential link to cancer and endocrine disruption.
Health Risks Through Everyday Use
Health experts warn that exposure can occur in multiple ways. According to Dr. Chris Pernell of the NAACP Center for Health Equity, chemicals in braiding hair can be absorbed through the scalp, inhaled during heat styling, or transferred through frequent handling.
Stylists and braiders may face the highest risk due to repeated contact with the materials.
While some substances identified — such as benzene and lead — are known carcinogens or neurotoxins, experts say more research is needed to determine whether chemical exposure from hair products directly leads to long-term illnesses.
Still, Pernell said the presence of hazardous chemicals alone “warrants attention, inquiry, and regulation.”
Ongoing Concerns About Black Hair Products
The findings add to a growing body of research linking beauty products marketed toward Black women to health risks.
Previous studies have found:
- Carcinogens and lead in synthetic braiding hair
- Increased uterine cancer risk linked to frequent use of chemical relaxers
- Elevated cancer risk among frequent users of hair straighteners
Experts say this creates what some researchers describe as a “catch-22,” since protective hairstyles like braids are often used specifically to avoid damaging relaxers.
Calls for Regulation and Transparency
Advocates say stronger oversight is urgently needed. Hair extension products often do not disclose chemical ingredients on packaging, making it difficult for consumers to assess safety.
Federal efforts are underway. Lawmakers, including Rep. Ayanna Pressley, have proposed legislation aimed at expanding oversight by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and strengthening cosmetic safety protections for communities of color.
At the state level, New York lawmakers are considering a bill that would require warning labels on hair products containing toxic chemicals.
Steps Consumers Can Take
Researchers say consumers concerned about exposure can:
- Choose products labeled non-toxic or chemical-free
- Limit frequency of wearing synthetic hair
- Consider plant-based alternatives
- Use apple cider vinegar rinses, which may reduce some chemical residues
Health advocates also stress the importance of consumer pressure in pushing companies toward safer formulations.
“Just as we fight for clean air and healthy food,” Pernell said, “communities have the right not to bear disproportionate risks from everyday consumer products.”
